14 Things to Do in Jaén: Spain’s Olive Oil Capital, Castles and Budget-Friendly Charm

Jaén isn't polished or postcard-perfect.

It's raw, mountainous, and blanketed in olive groves that seem to roll on forever. I'd seen it mentioned here and there, usually by hikers or historians, but rarely on anyone's "must-visit" list.

That alone made me curious.

So, my husband and I packed up the car and drove inland, chasing something quieter. What we found was a city that feels unapologetically real: streets twisting up the hills, stone towers watching over fountains, and the faint scent of olives on the breeze.

But is Jaén worth visiting? Absolutely, if you're after authenticity over gloss.

It's not a city of many big sights or tidy plazas, but it gets under your skin in the best way. And with Baeza, Úbeda, and the mountains of Andalucía right on its doorstep, it might just be Spain's most overlooked escape.

P.S. If you're thinking about visiting Jaen, don't forget to check out these things to do in Baeza, only 30 minutes away.

Is Jaén Worth Visiting?

Yes, but maybe not for the reasons most people visit Andalucía.

Jaén isn't a city built for crowds.

That's exactly what makes it special. You can wander for hours without bumping into another tourist and slip into cafés where no one speaks English.

The highlights are easy to love: the Cathedral of Jaén is one of the most beautiful in the region, towering over the city with views that stretch all the way to the hills. Just below it, the Arab Baths hidden inside the Palacio Villardompardo can absorb hours of your day.

Then there's the Parador and the Castle of Santa Catalina, located high above the city. From up there, the view is an endless horizon of olive trees.

What Is Jaén Famous For?

The Highlights:

• Olive oil: the Mar de Olivos stretches to the horizon.

• Castles: more here than anywhere else in Europe.

• Renaissance heritage: anchored by the Cathedral of Jaén.

• Arab Baths: reminders of Al-Andalus.

• Nature: Surrounded by mountains, there are plenty of trails and hilltop views.

How Is Jaén Different from Other Spanish Cities?

Jaén doesn't fit the usual Spanish city blueprint.

There's no flat old town you can neatly circle on a map.

Instead, its streets climb and twist over the hills, revealing viewpoints, fountains, and quiet corners at every turn. Prices are refreshingly low, tapas still come free with your drink, and the pace feels blissfully unhurried.

You'll also find that the hours are very different.

We arrived on Tuesday night to find almost all of the restaurants closed at 8 pm, something unheard of in Malaga. Many of the attractions also completely close by 2, or close and re-open later in the day.

It's Spain without the polish, and that's exactly what makes it so good.

How Easy Is It to Get to Jaén?

The nearest major city is Granada, just over an hour's drive, while Córdoba and Málaga are about two. If you're coming from Madrid, the high-speed train to Linares–Baeza gets you most of the way there, with a quick bus or taxi ride into the city.

We drove, which made life easier, especially for exploring the countryside and the olive route that fans out around Jaén. The roads are smooth, scenic, and almost empty, winding through endless fields of silver-green trees.

Public transport inside the city works fine if you're patient. You'll also need a bus card for getting around the city: the buses don't take debit or credit cards.

Map of Jaén’s Attractions

Best Things to Do in Jaén

1. Jaén Cathedral (Catedral de la Asunción)

Even if you've seen a dozen cathedrals in Spain, Jaén’s will stop you in your tracks. Designed by Renaissance master Andrés de Vandelvira, it dominates the skyline and has more hidden treasure than any cathedral I have been to so far, including Seville and Granada.

Beneath it all, the crypt holds a treasury of gold and silver relics, which you have to walk into a vault to see.

My favourite part? You can climb right to the top, where you have postcard-perfect views of the city. There's even a small exhibit with 3D goggles that let you "fly" over the cathedral and castle.

I loved it so much that the photo below from that day ended up on Jaén’s official tourism page. Check it out on Instagram. @turismodejaen.

2. Arab Baths at Palacio de Villardompardo

Hidden beneath a Renaissance palace are some of Spain's best-preserved Arab baths. Why don't we make things like this anymore?

Above the baths, the Palacio de Villardompardo opens into a sprawling folk-art museum that seems to go on forever. The art was almost psychedelic: bright, colourful paintings of everyday life in Jaén.

And when you finally reach the top, you're rewarded with one of the best surprises in the city: a rooftop terrace with 360-degree views.

3. Castillo de Santa Catalina & Cross Viewpoint

The view from up here was so good we had to go twice: once in the day, and once at night.

The castle is enormous and watches over the entire city, and if you follow the path to the end, you will find the White Cross viewpoint with the most amazing view of the city below.

We couldn't find any buses to the top, so if you don't have a car, you'll need to take a taxi or, gulp, walk.

4. Olive-Oil Tasting at an Almazara

If you have time, I recommend taking an Olive Oil Tour.

We ended up going to Oleotourism and walked away with over 50 euros' worth of olive oil. Just an fyi, the only English tour is at 10:30 in the morning, so make sure to book in advance as they do not take walk-ins.

So far, our favourite is the Picualia, which is the "spiciest" of the olive oils.

5. Museo Provincial / Museo Íbero

These are two museums under one roof: Iberian sculpture and archaeology below, fine arts above.

We didn't spend a lot of time here, because it was the end of the day and our feet were sore, but there is enough here to keep you busy for hours.

6. Jabacluz Gardens and Waterfall

Jabacluz gardens are just a 10-minute drive from the city into the mountains.

Every time we head somewhere, Jethro has the habit of typing "waterfall" and "swimming hole" into Google Maps, which is how we found this hidden gem.

It's not a long trail, but at the end you are rewarded with an amazing waterfall.

7. Mural Chasing in Barrio del Bulevar

Murals are something that seems to be catching on as a thing in Spain. We discovered almost 70 on a recent trip to Fuengirola.

In Jaén, there is an area of about 10 blocks covered in murals.

The downside is that it's right at the end of the city and far away from other attractions. But that's nothing a bus card can't fix.

8. La Magdalena Church & Fountain

In the Magdalena neighbourhood, across from the Church of La Magdalena, lies the Fuente del Lagarto (Lizard Fountain). According to the legend, a massive reptile once lurked in a cave near a torrent beside the fountain, preying on anyone who came there for water.

The tale goes that the city was terrorised by this beast until a prisoner, offered a deal in exchange for his freedom, built a trap. He gave the lizard a sack filled with gunpowder to swallow, and when it did, it exploded, killing the creature.

The story was reason enough to visit and snap a picture. Unfortunately, our slow feet couldn't make it to the church to take a look inside.

9. Tapas Crawl around Plaza de la Constitución

Possibly my favourite part about the whole province: free tapas with any drink.

Well, any drink except for Jethro's rum and cokes. How do you get a free croquette with a 1.5 euro water but not a 10 euro rum and coke? Anyway.

We went a whole day without ordering food.

Instead, with every coffee, water, beer, and wine we got a free tapa. Anything from sausages to toasted sandwiches. It allowed us to splurge occasionally on more expensive meals during the trip.

What I love is that there are so many local restaurants, and every one has its own take on Spanish cuisine. This is the perfect city for tapas crawling.

10. San Ildefonso District

San Ildefonso is one of the oldest parts of Jaén.

Its narrow streets twist between whitewashed houses and small plazas.

The Basílica de San Ildefonso stands quietly at the centre, and surrounding it are cafes where you can grab a coffee or something cooler before moving on.

11. Puerta del Ángel

Once part of Jaén’s old defensive walls, the Puerta del Ángel is one of the few city gates still standing.

It sits quietly on the edge of the old town, half hidden by olive trees and stone steps. The arch itself dates back to the fifteenth century and takes its name from the small chapel that once stood beside it, dedicated to the guardian angel of the city.

12. Sunset from the Castle Ridge

Jethro grumbled a lot, but on our last night we made a second trip back to the hilltop castle looking over the city for sunset views.

It takes a while for the city to become properly dark, but it's worth it for the view of the glowing cathedral below!

13. Santa Cruz Jewish Quarter

Wander narrow lanes once home to Hasdai ibn Shaprut.

Small churches hide older synagogues; a memorial in Plaza de los Huérfanos remembers expelled families.

14. Refugio Antiaéreo (Air-Raid Shelter)

Built after the 1937 bombing, this small underground shelter offers a glimpse into Jaén’s Civil War past.

The dim corridors and old photographs make you feel glad that part of history is behind us.

Best Restaurants Jaén

It may not look it from the outside, but Jaén is quietly a foodie spot, with a top 50 Michelin star restaurant hidden in the centre!

Michelin star restaurants, however, are not really my cup of tea while travelling. Instead, we focused on local favourites.

These are the ones we loved:

• Malavida: enjoy all sorts of free tapas with your drink, and reasonable prices - see the picture above. Everyone prefers to sit outside, and most of the inside area was empty.

I wish I had written down more of the small tapas spots we ate at. My recommendation is not to have one big meal, but stop at as many spots as you can instead, and discover your own favourite restaurant.

Where to Stay Jaén

• Parador Jaén – I wish I had stayed here after walking around the top of the mountain.

• Hotel Infanta Cristina – Where we stayed for 4 days. It's beautiful inside, a little old, but full of charm. Check out the stained glass ceiling in the above picture.

• Budget guesthouses– Stay in San Ildefonso near the cathedral; it's family-run and friendly.

We based ourselves low in the city for easy parking and evening walks, but if you don't like walking, I suggest staying close to the attractions you care about if you don't have a car.

Things to Do Near Jaén

Baeza (A UNESCO Town)

I'm writing another post soon about Baeza, where we spent a day exploring this medieval village.

When you walk around this city, you can almost imagine you've been transported back in time hundreds of years. There are many things to see, all within an easy-to-walk area, and it's only a 30-minute drive or bus from Jaén.

Castillo de Burgalimar (Baños de la Encina)

Only 40 40-minute drive from jaén is Spain's oldest castle.

Built in the 10th century, it has 15 towers.

There were no crowds, which meant we had the whole place to ourselves to explore and snap photos. There's only one curio shop, and it closes from 2 to 5 pm. If, like me, you enjoy picking up a small souvenir, plan your visit outside those hours.

Optional side trips if you have time: Alcalá la Real's La Mota Fortress or the Sierra de Cazorla for hikes.

Popular Festivals in Jaén

• Romería de la Virgen de la Capilla – June pilgrimage and street food.

• Feria de San Lucas – October's main fair with rides, parades, and music.

• Lagarto Rock – June open-air music festival honouring the Lizard legend.

Some Fun Facts

Spain's Largest Protected Area

Jaén is home to the Sierras de Cazorla, Segura y Las Villas Natural Park, the biggest protected area in Spain and the second largest in Europe. It's a vast landscape of pine forests, rivers, and mountain villages that feels untouched.

The Province in Spain with the Most Castles

With more than 100 fortresses scattered across its hills, including Spain's oldest castle, Jaén holds the record for the most castles of any province in Spain.

20% of the world's Olive Oil

Jaén isn't just surrounded by olive trees; it runs on them. The province produces roughly 20% of the world's olive oil, earning it the nickname "the World Capital of Olive Oil."

Final Thoughts

Jaén surprised us. Between cathedral spires and graffiti walls, olive mills and waterfall gardens, it offers a slice of Andalusian life that most travellers miss.

If you're road-tripping through southern Spain, give Jaén a full day or two. It's a city that doesn't try to impress, but it will win you over.

For help navigating the city, see our guide to getting around Jaen. And don't miss our guide to day trips from Jaen for more ideas on exploring the region.