Discovering Setenil de las Bodegas in One Day

On our last visit, it only took us around 2.5 hours to complete the full "Route of the Caves".

And that's with tons of photo stops along the way, photos below.

Setenil de las Bodegas makes for an excellent stop on the way back from Ronda, but only if you're okay with shaving off some time in that beautiful city.

If you have the chance, add it to your bucket list; you won't regret it!

Why Visit Setenil de las Bodegas

Setenil is part of the famous Ruta de los Pueblos Blancos (Route of the White Villages), but what sets it apart from other pueblos blancos is that the buildings are literally built into and underneath massive overhanging rocks carved out by the Rio Trejo over thousands of years.

As you do a long circle through, up, and around the city, you'll find stunning viewpoints, a church, an old plaza, and so much more.

It's a really rewarding walk that doesn't take you too far but lasts long enough that you feel like you've really been somewhere.

You can even stay in one of these beautiful cave homes for the night!

How to Walk the Route of the Caves

We finally did this right on this last trip, but on all the others, we made it way more difficult than it needed to be.

Although it's easy to make a mistake and walk down the wrong street, the route is essentially one big circle.

You start at Calle cuevas del Sol (Caves of the Sun), where you have the best views of the overhanging cliffs.

You then cross the bridge to Cuevas de las Sombra, and after taking some pictures of the tunnel on the left, simply turn right and follow the signs.

The path is a little steep, but only for a few minutes.

After that, it's flat or starts going downhill again.

What to See in Setenil de las Bodegas

1. Calle Cuevas del Sol

This is Setenil's most famous street, and where I recommend starting your journey into this city.

Buildings sit beneath a dramatic rock overhang, with restaurants and cafes spilling onto the narrow road. It's called "Sun Street" because it catches sunlight for much of the day.

It's really tempting to sit at one of the cafes right away, but this is only the beginning of your roughly 1.5-2 hour journey into the city. Don't worry, the route ends back here!

You'll find restaurants, markets, souvenir shops, ice-cream stalls and more down this little road.

2. Calle Cuevas de la Sombra

Cross the river, and you'll find the only true part of this little town that's covered by rock.

A giant boulder forms a natural stone ceiling over the entire street, creating a mini tunnel with stores on both sides.

The covered section is on your left, but the real journey starts when you turn right and head up the hills toward the tower, church, viewpoints, and so much more.

3. Torre del Homenaje

The lone surviving tower of a 14th-century Moorish fortress (the ancient Alcazaba of Setenil).

Don't miss taking a photo with the romantic plaque at the Mirador El Lizon that reads: "Lo mejor de Setenil esta aqui y eres tu" ("The best of Setenil is here, and it's you").

For 2 euros, you can step inside to see rotating exhibitions and climb to the top for panoramic views. There is a woman who sits outside where you can buy tickets with cash only. If you only have a card, remember to visit Antigua Casa Consistorial further down the hill to pay by card before heading up.

4. Mirador del Carmen

One of the best viewpoints in Setenil, and near the end of the loop.

Climb the stairs from Calle Jaboneria for a panoramic view of the village with its white houses, the Torre del Homenaje, the old walls, and the Church of the Encarnacion.

The 18th-century Hermitage of the Virgin of Carmen sits here too.

5. Church of Nuestra Señora de la Encarnación

This late Gothic church was built over the town's main mosque after the Christian reconquest.

Construction began under the Catholic Monarchs in the late 15th century but wasn't finished until 1614.

It's located at the top of town with beautiful views of the countryside.

6. Calle Herreria

The town's oldest street is a must if you're visiting with someone special.

Here you'll find the famous plaque "Besame en este rincon" ("Kiss me in this corner"), beneath an overhanging cliff.

So, obviously, a popular spot for couples.

7. Plaza de Andalucia

A tiny but picturesque square where you'll find quaint old bars and orange trees backed by the start of the overhanging cliffs.

If you need it, you'll find the tourist office here as well.

Be careful when you go down the steps; they are really dusty, and we almost lost our camera when Jethro slipped down them.

8. Mirador de la Villa

At this point, you might be wiped out, and the prospect of more stairs is enough to make you wish for the car or bus air-conditioner.

But it's another beautiful viewpoint overlooking the olive fields, with a really unique view of the cave houses you won't find anywhere else.

You can really see how the town is built on multiple levels carved into the rock.

9. Antigua Casa Consistorial

This is where you buy the tickets for 2 euros to enter the other attractions further up the hill. When you are inside, remember to look up at the beautiful 16th-century Mudejar ceiling.

10. Casa de la Damita de Setenil

This little museum is more for history buffs, and the same 2-euro ticket you bought for the tower will get you in here as well.

You'll mostly see easels with pictures showing the history of the city, and one or two interesting pieces.

The main draw is the "Damita de Setenil," a 5,000-year-old Venus figurine discovered nearby.

Where to Stay in Setenil de las Bodegas

The little village is actually quite peaceful at night, and this area is also meant to be spectacular for stargazing too.

If you do fall in love with the idea of staying here, then you basically have two choices.

You can stay in one of the quaint homes right under the rocks. Just be warned, it gets busy during the day.

Or, you can stay above the business in one of the homes or hotels with the more impressive views.

Casa Cueva Rinconcito is an amazing home built into the rock, and for views, Los Cortinales has some stunning views and a balcony.

Where to Eat in Setenil de las Bodegas

We ate at Bar Frasquito on Calle Cuevas del Sol on our last trip.

Turns out, it's a local favourite, and I'm definitely in their camp, because we had some amazing snacks, and the prices were great too.

Otherwise, we've always just had small bites or a drink or two at many of the cosy restaurants, and they've always been great.

We haven't been tourist-taxed yet either.

One restaurant I've always wanted to try, because of the views, is El Patio de María Teresa.

If you go, please let me know if you liked it or not!

Try to avoid 12-3 pm if you can; this is when the tourist buses from Ronda come in.

How to Get to Setenil de las Bodegas from Málaga

Setenil de las Bodegas is about 100km (60 miles) from Malaga, roughly a 1 hour 15 minute drive through scenic Andalusian countryside.

There are plenty of tours that offer a combined trip, but if you can, rent a car. It's a pleasant drive and not too far from Malaga.

Driving is by far the easiest option. The route takes you through beautiful Andalusian countryside, and you can stop in Ronda on the same trip.

Where to Park in Setenil de las Bodegas

If you're with anyone who has trouble walking, then drive right to the entrance of Calle Cuevas del Sol and drop them off.

There is this really cute train that takes you from the parking lot to the entrance and other viewpoints, as well as tuk-tuks that take you up the hill with a guide feeding you incredible info, but dropping off is easier in my opinion.

This is because no matter where you park, you're going to be walking at least 7-10 minutes, and probably in the hot sun.

There are tons of parking options, and somehow it always feels a little frustrating to find parking.

This is because the streets are narrow, there's nowhere to turn around if you make a mistake, and there's always a queue of cars behind you, making you feel rushed.

Whatever you do, don't attempt to drive into the village centre.

You could look around for free parking spots on the road, but my suggestion is to head to one of these two options:

• Calle San Sebastian (upper town): Free street parking with great views. From here, walk down the steps towards Calle Cadiz.
• Parking Los Canos (paid): Underground garage near the exit to Olvera, about €8/day.

We've mapped all the options in our complete Setenil parking guide.

Tip: Near the taxi rank just before you enter the city, there are public toilets. When we visited, the cost was 0.50 cents. The restaurants and bars are very strict about using their facilities, so if you do arrive in Setenil, we suggest you use these loos.

When to Visit Setenil de las Bodegas

Setenil de las Bodegas is a year-round destination.

Unless you see a rain forecast, there's only one thing that might stop you, the heat.

In peak Summer, this area in Spain can get extremely hot.

I love going for lunch after a trip to Ronda, but if your heart is set on just Setenil, then go early to beat the heat.

Setenil de las Bodegas might be small, but it packs more character than towns twice its size.

It's not just the cave houses or the views.

It's that feeling of discovering something hidden away, just for you. Even though thousands of visitors come each year, the narrow streets and dramatic rock formations make it feel intimate and special.

Combine it with a day trip to Ronda, and you've got one of the best excursions from Malaga.