Setenil de las Bodegas: Day Trip Guide from Malaga (2026)

Imagine a town where homes are carved into cliffs, tucked beneath massive rock overhangs like they've always been part of the landscape.

Welcome to Setenil de las Bodegas, one of Andalusia's most unique villages.

We stumbled across it by chance, detouring on our drive back from Ronda.

What was meant to be a quick stop became one of the trip's standout moments. The cave houses are incredible, but it's not just about the looks. The food here is surprisingly great, too.

Setenil is part of the famous Ruta de los Pueblos Blancos (Route of the White Villages), but what sets it apart from other pueblos blancos is that the buildings are literally built into and underneath massive overhanging rocks carved out by the Rio Trejo over thousands of years.

How to Get to Setenil de las Bodegas from Malaga

Setenil de las Bodegas is about 100km (60 miles) from Malaga, roughly a 1 hour 15 minute drive through scenic Andalusian countryside.

Driving from Malaga

Driving is by far the easiest option. The route takes you through beautiful Andalusian countryside, and you can stop in Ronda on the same trip.

Route: A-357 west from Malaga, then A-367 towards Ronda, then MA-449 to Setenil.

By Bus from Malaga

Yes, you can reach Setenil by bus, but it's not ideal for a day trip. Autobuses Paco Pepe operates a direct bus from Malaga bus station (Estacion de Autobuses), but services run only once daily Monday to Saturday.

A better option: take a bus to Ronda (more frequent, about 2 hours), then taxi to Setenil (20 minutes, around €25-30).

From Ronda

Setenil is just 15km from Ronda, a quick 20-minute drive.

This makes it perfect to combine both on the same day trip. Visit Ronda in the morning, then head to Setenil in the afternoon (or vice versa).

Where to Park in Setenil de las Bodegas

Setenil has no official car park yet (one is being built), but there are several free parking options.

Best options:

• Calle San Sebastian (upper town): Free street parking with great views. From here, walk down the steps towards Calle Cadiz.
• Avenida de Andalucia (edge of town): Large free lot, 10-15 min walk to centre. Guaranteed spaces even on busy days.
• Parking Los Canos (paid): Underground garage near the exit to Olvera, about €8/day.

Important: Do not attempt to drive into the village centre. The streets are extremely narrow with two-way traffic on one-car-wide roads.

We've mapped all the options in our complete Setenil parking guide.

12 Things to Do in Setenil de las Bodegas

Setenil may be small, but it's bursting with things to see. Here's the best of what this unique village has to offer.

1. Calle Cuevas del Sol (Street of the Sun Caves)

This is Setenil's most famous street and where most visitors start.

Buildings sit beneath a dramatic rock overhang, with restaurants and cafes spilling onto the narrow road. It's called "Sun Street" because it catches sunlight for much of the day.

The vibe here is lively, but it's better for a drink than a full meal (too busy). Snap your photos, grab a coffee, and soak up the atmosphere.

2. Calle Cuevas de la Sombra (Street of the Shadow Caves)

Cross the river and you'll find Setenil's darker, cooler twin.

A giant boulder forms a natural stone ceiling over the entire street, creating an almost tunnel-like passage between the facades. It's one of Setenil's most jaw-dropping sights and feels noticeably cooler in summer.

3. Torre del Homenaje (The Tower)

The lone surviving tower of a 14th-century Moorish fortress (the ancient Alcazaba of Setenil). For €2-3, you can step inside to see rotating exhibitions and climb to the top for panoramic views.

Don't miss the romantic plaque at the Mirador El Lizon that reads: "Lo mejor de Setenil esta aqui y eres tu" ("The best of Setenil is here, and it's you").

4. Mirador del Carmen

One of the best viewpoints in Setenil.

Climb the stairs from Calle Jaboneria for a panoramic view of the village with its white houses, the Torre del Homenaje, the old walls, and the Church of the Encarnacion. The 18th-century Hermitage of the Virgin of Carmen sits here too.

5. Church of Nuestra Senora de la Encarnacion

This late Gothic church was built over the town's main mosque after the Christian reconquest.

Construction began under the Catholic Monarchs in the late 15th century but wasn't finished until 1614. It blends Moorish and Gothic architectural styles beautifully.

Located at the top of town with sweeping views of the Cadiz countryside.

6. Calle Herreria

The town's oldest and arguably most romantic street.

Here you'll find the famous plaque "Besame en este rincon" ("Kiss me in this corner"), nestled beneath an overhanging cliff. It's a popular photo spot for couples.

7. Plaza de Andalucia

The heart of the upper town.

This pleasant square is home to the Town Hall and Tourist Office. A good place to catch your breath and plan your route.

8. Mirador de la Villa

Another excellent viewpoint overlooking the olive fields and the unique multi-level architecture of Setenil's cave houses. You can really see how the town is built on multiple levels carved into the rock.

9. Antigua Casa Consistorial

The former town hall, now housing the tourist information office. Worth a look inside for the beautiful 16th-century Mudejar ceiling.

10. Casa de la Damita de Setenil

A small museum featuring the "Damita de Setenil," a 5,000-year-old Venus figurine discovered nearby. A fascinating glimpse into the area's prehistoric past.

11. Romantic Spots: "Besame" and "Susurrame"

Setenil has embraced its romantic character.

Besides the famous "Kiss me in this corner" plaque on Calle Herreria, look for "Susurrame al oido" ("Whisper in my ear") nearby. Perfect for couples.

12. Acinipo Roman Ruins (Nearby)

About 20km from Setenil, these impressive Roman ruins include a well-preserved theater, ancient baths, and surrounding walls.

If you have extra time and a car, it's worth a detour. Entry is free.

Where to Eat in Setenil de las Bodegas

The cave streets are lined with restaurants, but some are better than others.

Bar Frasquito on Calle Cuevas del Sol is a local favourite.

It's always busy, which is usually a good sign. Great for a quick drink and tapas.

For something more substantial, head to the upper town where you'll find restaurants with more space and less tourist chaos. The food in Setenil tends to be hearty Andalusian fare: migas (fried breadcrumbs), chorizo al vino (chorizo in wine), and local cheeses.

Pro tip: Avoid eating lunch between 12pm-2pm on Cuevas del Sol.

It's when tour buses empty, and prices reflect the captive audience. Eat early or late.

Best Time to Visit Setenil de las Bodegas

Best Time of Day

• Before 10am: Quiet streets, easy parking, great photos without crowds
• 10am-11am: Starting to get busier
• 11am-2pm: Tour bus chaos. Avoid if possible.
• 2pm-4pm: Lunch lull, some crowds leaving
• After 4pm: Quieter again, lovely afternoon light

Best Season

• Spring (April-May): Perfect weather, wildflowers, moderate crowds
• Autumn (September-October): Pleasant temperatures, harvest season
• Summer: Hot, but the cave streets stay cool (temperatures inside cave houses vary by only 3 degrees year-round)
• Winter: Quiet, but some restaurants may have limited hours

A Brief History of Setenil de las Bodegas

The name "Setenil" likely comes from the Latin "Septem Nihil" (seven times nothing), referring to the seven sieges the town endured before finally falling to Christian forces in 1484. The Catholic Monarchs, Ferdinand and Isabella, personally led the final successful siege.

"Bodegas" (wine cellars) was added later, referencing the wine production that once thrived here. The natural caves provided perfect temperature-controlled storage for wine.

The cave dwellings aren't artificial.

Over millennia, the Rio Trejo carved through the limestone, creating the dramatic overhangs. Locals simply built their homes into and beneath these natural formations, a practice dating back centuries.

In 1985, Setenil's historic centre was declared a Site of Cultural Interest.

Common Questions About Setenil de las Bodegas

Final Thoughts

Setenil de las Bodegas might be small, but it packs more character than towns twice its size.

It's not just the cave houses or the views.

It's that feeling you get of discovering something that feels hidden away, just for you. Even though thousands of visitors come each year, the narrow streets and dramatic rock formations make it feel intimate and special.

Combine it with a day trip to Ronda and you've got one of the best excursions from Malaga.